PLEATS PLEASE: The revolutionary brand which bridges comfort, style and versatility.

by HULA , September 30, 2021
Issey Miyake: Sushi, 3
Pleats Please by Issey Miyake Campaign in April 2013

Issey Miyake is a trailblazer within the fashion industry and PLEATS PLEASE is an example of why. Through his innovative use of technology and design, Miyake has created clothing that combines functionality, practicality, and style with hardly any wasted material. Below we discuss more about Issey Miyake, his inspiration for the brand and the unique craftsmanship behind PLEATS PLEASE which makes it so revolutionary.

 

PLEATS PLEASE is a sub-brand of Japanese designer, Issey Miyake, that has become extremely popular due to its versatility, comfort and sleek appearance. In the late 80’s, Miyake started to experiment with micro pleats after making costumes for ballet dancers and he realised that the pleats added so much movement and adaptability to a piece of clothing. This meant the pieces were the perfect clothing choice for the everyday person and at the same time adding an element of elevation to the person’s look. After introducing the pleated items to his main line in 1989, they soon became a brand of their own, due their huge popularity in 1993. Miyake was able to harness technology to ensure the pleats were permanent as well as being able to create each item with a single piece of cloth (APOC). APOC has since become a term coined by Miyake, and championed by many in the fashion industry, as it means there is virtually no waste.

Portrait of Issey Miyake

Miyake’s fundamental concept when creating PLEATS PLEASE was that “design is not for philosophy, but for life”. He wanted to create clothing that could be worn my modern women, no matter what their daily life might entail. Each item is extremely light and crease proof, which makes it hugely attractive when it comes to travelling. Not only are the clothes easy to wear and travel with, but they are also hugely versatile. One item can be worn in many ways due to the stretch the pleats allow. For example, a skirt could be a strapless top and a cardigan can be worn backwards as a top. Plus, they are great to wear if you are pregnant! The endless possibilities that each item has allows them to stay fresh within your wardrobe which is why PLEATS PLEASE items have remained a staple for many.

Not only are the clothes unique to look at, extremely versatile and the perfect day-to-evening option, but they are also environmentally friendly. Each item is made from ‘a piece of clothing’ (APOC), which means there is very little waste involved in the process of making the items for PLEATS PLEASE. Miyake has been environmentally conscious since the beginning of his career, which resulted in him putting a big emphasis on the quality and relationship with the manufacturers. Which means not only do PLEATS PLEASE items feel and look great, but they are also conscious of their impact on the environment which makes buying pieces from PLEATS PLEASE even more enjoyable.

 

Sandwiched between two pieces of paper, each piece of fabric is pleated one at a time with the pleating machine.

So, how exactly are the clothes made? Well, the unique garment pleating is accomplished by using a single piece of high quality, 100% polyester fabric which are first cut and then sewn together three times larger than the finished garment. Once the garment is cut and sewn, the individual piece is placed, by hand, into the heat press which is sandwiched between two sheets of Washi paper. This process creates pleats that are permanently imprinted into the fabrics DNA. This has meant that the clothes don’t crease, they take up minimal space to store and due to them being made my polyester they don’t require dry cleaning- quite literally making them the dream item. This technique is Miyake’s own innovation, and this design process was patented in 1993. Typically to make pleats, garments are cut and sewn last which is why PLEATS PLEASE items are both revolutionary and unique.

 

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